FALL 2026 PRE-ORDER: Organic Morel Grain Spawn

Black morels, Morchella importuna.

The black morel, a cultivable culinary treasure

An excellent edible mushroom, the black morel grows naturally in the spring in forests, often on limestone soil. Prized for its delicate flavor and unique texture, it is particularly sought after by gourmets.

Our strain is distinguished by its ability to be cultivated under controlled conditions. Unlike some varieties that form symbiotic relationships with trees, it is primarily saprotrophic: it feeds on decomposing organic matter without requiring a living host. This characteristic allows it to be grown on a substrate, making it possible to produce it outside its natural habitat.

It should be noted, however, that we generally recommend growing them outdoors. The success of the crop depends on many factors, including the presence of certain soil bacteria that aid in fruiting.

Storing the mycelium: If you do not plan to use the mycelium within 3 to 5 days of receiving it, it is best to store it in the refrigerator. It will keep for 1 to 2 months before use.

In summary:

Our commitment to quality:

We produce our mycelium under laboratory conditions, ensuring the purity of the strains and optimal quality.

We produce our mycelium using 100% organic methods, and all our products are certified "BE-BIO-01, Agriculture Belgique" by CERTISYS.

Note: Growing morels is more complex than growing most of the other varieties we sell on our website. Cultivation remains relatively experimental, but research in recent years and the sharing of information have significantly advanced this practice. We guarantee the quality of the strain, but we cannot guarantee successful cultivation. Please feel free to share your experiences with us.

🌱 Growing conditions

Morels are generally grown outdoors: in a vegetable garden under a shade cloth, in a shaded greenhouse, or in the woods.

Seeds are generally sown in late fall and early winter, between October and December. Temperatures should not exceed 20°C (just above ground level).

Late sowing is possible until late December in some regions where there isn't too much frost. In colder regions, it's best to sow in the spring after the last frosts have passed.

The habitat:

The goal is to replicate the morel's natural optimal growing conditions. In most cases, a tunnel-shaped shelter with a shade cloth will be necessary. The mycelium needs shade to grow properly and cannot tolerate direct sunlight. Think of a forest floor or forest edge, and try to replicate that level of light.

Avoid growing areas that have been treated with fungicides such as copper (found in Bordeaux mixture, which is permitted in organic farming, for example), or soil that is acidic or high in tannins. Morels thrive in calcareous, alkaline soil. The ideal pH is 7 or 8, which can be measured using pH test strips. It may be necessary to amend the soil with calcium carbonate, Meudon white, or limestone. Avoid lime rich in magnesium, which is generally unsuitable for mushroom cultivation.

As a secondary decomposer, morel mycelium thrives in soil rich in pre-decomposed organic matter. If you have wood chips, it’s best to let them compost for a year, then work them into the top 5 centimeters of soil in the spring or summer. Manure should also be 2 to 3 years old before being mixed into the soil for morels.

Morel mycelium is quite resistant to light frosts. If prolonged periods of frost below -5°C are expected, try to provide additional protection for your mycelium by covering your tunnel with a thicker net or a tarp.

🔧 Method (IT)

1. Inoculation (seeding):

There are two options:

• The mycelium is spread out (200 to 300 grams of mycelium per square meter) and then covered or buried under 2 to 4 centimeters of soil.
• The mycelium is buried in "clumps" weighing 100 to 200 grams, covered with 2 to 4 cm of soil (2 to 3 clumps per square meter). Using this technique, the mycelium can be placed in terracotta pots, positioned with the opening facing upward and sealed at the bottom. This method is more labor-intensive, but it protects the mycelium from contamination, limits damage from rodents, and accelerates the mycelium’s spread by directing it upward through the opening, while allowing the mycelium to breathe properly.

Some recommend, in conjunction with inoculation, lightly sowing grains (wheat, rye, etc.) to cover the soil. This light vegetation will provide natural shade for the mycelium, some sugars through the roots, as well as protection from the wind and a more constant humidity level that is favorable to mycelium development. Overly dense sowing is not recommended.

The soil must be thoroughly moist before inoculation to allow the mycelium to develop properly, either after rain or after watering.

2. The proliferation of the mycelium:

The morel's mycelium will spread out from the spores to explore its surroundings. It will appear on the soil surface in concentric circles, known as "explosions." Depending on the habitat and temperature, this process can take 1 to 3 weeks and may be more or less pronounced.

3. Feeding:

The morel mushroom will initially feed on its so-called "endogenous" food, which is present in the soil. Soon, the morel mycelium will need to be fed with so-called "exogenous" food, placed directly on the ground. This voracious mushroom requires a supply of sugars (starches, cellulose, and simple sugars). We recommend our nutrient bags, which should be placed with the opening facing the ground. Another technique involves placing cooked apples, cut in half, with the cut side facing the mycelium’s growth area.

The morel mycelium will thus move from a nutrient-rich environment (its inoculation site) through a nutrient-poor environment (the soil) and then back to a sugar-rich environment (exogenous food). This alternation in environmental conditions will allow the mycelium to properly develop its sclerotia, which will then produce beautiful morels.

These bags of grain will be left in place for a few weeks without being touched, unless they become contaminated with mold or insects. If you observe the bags closely, you should see the mycelium colonizing the grains within a few days of their placement. Around March or April, when temperatures begin to rise—about 2 to 3 weeks before fruiting—these bags will be removed.

4. Incubation:

The entire incubation period lasts between 1.5 and 4 months. After feeding, the mycelium will gradually turn orange and then brown. At this stage, the mycelium will draw nutrients from the external food source and transport them into the soil, a nutrient-poor environment. There, it will concentrate and store these nutrients in the form of sclerotia, which will later produce beautiful morels.

5. Watering:

Since mushrooms are composed of nearly 90% water, moisture is a crucial factor. The soil must be thoroughly watered before inoculation. A few weeks before fruiting, the soil should be watered regularly. Avoid strong water jets that could damage the mycelium on the surface. Opt for gentle watering using perforated hoses or micro-drippers, preferably in the morning. In case of heavy rain, protect your mycelium well with a double shade cloth if necessary.

6. fruiting

The mushrooms will begin to grow as soil temperatures rise. At this stage, the mycelium will need more light. This can happen naturally as the days begin to get longer, but you can also remove part of the shade cloth during the day. At night, always cover them with a shade cloth to reduce the risk of frost.

The emergence of "primordia" (mushroom buds) is a delicate phase. Primordia are very sensitive and fragile. It is therefore important to be vigilant during this period, avoiding direct sunlight, drying winds, heavy rain, frost, etc., while providing them with some light and consistent humidity.

Watering is best done by capillary action: avoid wetting the morels directly; instead, water around them or along the paths. In very hot weather, you may water them directly using a sprinkler system, but only in the morning before temperatures rise. The water will then be quickly absorbed and evaporate.

7. Harvesting generally takes place between February and May, when temperatures rise to around 20°C and the soil warms up. Keep the soil moist throughout the mushrooms’ growth cycle. Morels should be harvested when they are about 10 cm long.

Protection Against Pests

Morel cultivation can be threatened by various pests, including insects and molds. To minimize these risks, install a shade cloth and a protective tarp. These measures help create a controlled environment, reducing the risk of contamination.

For effective biological control of larvae, slugs, and other pests, you can useBacillus thuringiensis (BT), a bacterium naturally found in the soil that specifically targets insect pests without harming the crop. Be sure to follow the manufacturer’s instructions for proper use.

For slugs emerging from hibernation, ferric phosphate is often used; it is also permitted in organic farming. We recommend it only when the first primordia appear. The blue pellets are coated with a flour that attracts slugs, but which unfortunately also tends to encourage the growth of Dactylium, a mold that attacks young morels. Dactylium thrives in constant humidity and a lack of evaporation. You will therefore need to adjust your shelters to increase or limit evaporation, humidity, and soil temperature to give our beautiful morels the best possible chance of success.

Bird and Rodent Control

Birds and rodents can also pose a threat to morel crops by scratching at the soil or digging up young mushrooms. To deter them, you can use protective netting or natural repellents. Installing physical barriers around growing areas can also help protect your harvest.

📊 Productivity

Productivity depends on several factors:

• The quality of the substrate (soil, organic matter, soil bacteria, etc.),
• The weather,
• Crop maintenance, or the gardener's "green thumb."

With proper cultivation, you can expect to harvest between 500 and 1,500 grams per square meter.

⚠️ Precautions

Morels must be cooked. They are poisonous when raw.

If this is your first time eating this type of fish, it’s best to start with a small amount to check for any allergies, even after cooking.

Allow about 10 minutes for cooking in a skillet or saucepan to ensure it's cooked through.

❓ FAQ

Is it normal for my mycelium to be brown?

The morel mycelium goes through various stages of development, taking on white, orange, and then brown hues.

Should I water my plants?

Since this is primarily a winter crop, the soil is generally naturally moist. There are two key periods to consider: before inoculation, the soil must be thoroughly moist to ensure proper mycelium growth, and in the spring, as the soil warms up, it is often necessary to water it to maintain soil moisture.

Does it grow back every year?

No. Since it is a saprophytic species, it breaks down dead organic matter and does not form mycorrhizae with surrounding trees. After fruiting, the morel mycelium is weakened. It is also quite sensitive to heat and drought, so it generally does not survive the summer unless the environment remains cool and moist.

Is it possible to grow them indoors?

It is possible, and it has already been done in Denmark. However, since growing morels outdoors is already relatively complex and experimental, growing them indoors is even more so. The difficulty lies less in the mycelium colonizing the substrate than in the technical conditions required for fruiting.

Do cultivated morels taste the same as wild morels?

Yes, morels grown outdoors can be just as flavorful as those harvested in the woods. The flavor depends on the quality of the soil and its organic matter content. Excessive watering or rain during the fruiting stage fruiting diminish the flavor of the morels. For better preservation and flavor, avoid harvesting morels immediately after rain.

Does it grow well alongside other plants in the vegetable garden?

Yes. Morel mycelium mainly establishes itself from October to December and is harvest February to May. Morel mycelium feeds, among other things, on the dead roots of cultivated plants.

I have acidic soil—will this work?

No, morels require alkaline soil. You’ll need to add lime or calcium carbonate to raise the pH above 7 before planting the mycelium.